red panhandle

100% cotton, with taupe snaps.

smile pockets, vintage yokes

panhandle pocket

100% cotton with grey topstitching.

panhandle pocket

summer sawtooth

Short sleeve sawtooth, made with 1970s vintage shadow plaid.

denim sawtooth

dark denim sawtooth

I like to use a small stitch length on denim as well as lighter weight cotton poplin.

This shirt has copper topstitching, and plus some gold on the top of the pocket flap, and flat felled seams.

denim sawtooth back

cuff and placket

These sawtooth styles have been around since the fifties and have become a staple for Japanese denim labels as much as American jean and westernwear makers.

slant pocket

I saw a yoke like this on a 50s flannel snap shirt.

slant pocket

Double topstitching on pockets, yokes, collar and and placket.

fuji

This pocket is often seen on Japanese-made snap shirts. Variations on the shape go back to American shirts in the 40s.

fuji

Country singer Tomi Fujiyama was the first Japanese woman to play the Grand Old Opry, in 1964. This recent CD includes country classics like “Walkin After Midnight” and “Tennessee Waltz”.

Lonely Together

Wanda Jackson

Rockabilly Queen Wanda Jackson had a number one hit in Japan with her 1957 song “Fujiyama Mama”, which failed to chart in the US. The song is about a volatile woman, compared to Japan’s volcanic Mount Fuji, and the atomic bomb.

Wanda’s still touring.

canadian

canadian, dark brown

canadian pocket

Canadian, pearl grey

A classic cut western shirt with single point pocket flap. I use various kinds of cotton shirting, vintage fabrics-like rayon and 70s poly cottons-when I can get them. and other fabrics like rayon-relative tencel. I always wash and dry any kind of fabric before cutting it, so the shirts don’t shrink. These shirts are organic cotton poplin, a fabric I loved but can no longer get.

sawtooth pocket

Sawtooth pockets have been used on western shirts since the 50s. I’ve made a lot of them in organic cotton poplin. I also did some in denim.

navy sawtooth

dark brown sawtooth

Gable and Monroe in The Misfits

Clark Gable wore a sawtooth shirt in 1961′s The Misfits, with Marilyn Monroe. This 50s rayon one belongs to a friend.

george's 50s rayon sawtooth shirt

Country singer Hank Snow often wore fancy sawtooth shirts, like on the cover of his 1963 LP I’ve Been Everywhere. And below is Bob Wills, the King of Western Swing, in a striped sawtooth.

I've Been Everywhere

Bob Wills, King of Western Swing

the ranch shirt

Ranch attire for 21st century cowboys. Patch pockets with asymmetrical flap, back V yoke, extra wide cuffs and white pearl snaps. This colour is a brownish wine, and it can also be made in navy, black, dark brown, and light blue.

the ranch shirt

black

ranch shirt back, with V yoke

ranch shirt pocket

pocket, black